Monday, February 17, 2014

why is my hair brassy? Achieving The Perfect Blonde

Your Nature

Let me get to the point, the darker your hair is, the darker the red pigment is underneath your hair. Also,  if you have brown hair,  you have orange pigment in your hair and finally even if you are a dirty blonde you may have some traces of yellow orange underneath. Unless you were totally  blonde until the age of fourteen, you have some level of red inside your hair. The hairdresser didn't put it in your hair, nature did.
When we began coloring our hair in any level that is lighter than out own, we run the risk of exposing that red or orange pigment that we refer to as brassy.  For those of you doing at home color, let me tell you I don't care what the box says,  it is simply impossible to go from brown to blonde in one process without having warm tones come up , your hair will be brassy.

Correction by Monica Ponce

What can be done

Burnett to blonde by Monica Ponce

The first option is to stay with in two levels of your natural color, but if nature placed you too far away from your desire color then more can be done. Nowadays hair color can be lifted in one process and with the right formulation it can give you beautiful warm tones, not brassy but warm. If however you are set in more neutral or ash results then a double process is require and sometimes a triple process.  If you are a medium to light brown then a high lift color can be use follow by a toning color to control any unwanted pigment. If you are darker that a medium brown the a lightening process (bleach) has to be use follow by a toner or gloss to seal the cuticle. Depending on the look you want to achieve and your natural color you may need a base color, highlights and toner.                                              

That shade of blonde

Warm colors can be beautiful and not brassy, Jennifer Aniston and Jenifer Lopez both have warm shades of blonde.

Natural and Ash blonde shades have a violet or green undertone. Cameron Diaz has more natural ash pale blonde.

If you saw Kim Kardashian attempt to blonde, then you can see how difficult it is to get rid of all warm tones.   We can see clearly the warm tones when she started going blonde and also how towards the end, as she was getting lighter her hair was beginning to show the damages in frizziness which is probably the reason she went back to dark.

Things to consider 

 If you do other chemical treatments such as straighteners or perms, high-lift colors may not be an option for you.
A professional hairstylist should be able to identify the possibilities and options for your hair.
Achieving the desire shade of blonde can be a lengthy and costly process.
Some medication including blood pressure medication, cholesterol medication and some antidepressant and birth control may interfere with your hair color. Do a clarifying shampoo before coloring and once a week. Tell your stylist.
High levels of mineral on in your water may add unwanted brassy tones. Use a water filter.
Avoid any other chemical treatment, use professional products and limit the use of hot tools to maintain your hair in good conditions.
Finally, choose an experience colorist and listen to her suggestions.

Monica Ponce
Muse The Salon
(813) 258-2558

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